Inside the Column: How the 0000021999 Works
Take the plastic shrouds off a Crossfire's column and you'll find a solid steel shaft that runs from the steering wheel down through a collapsible intermediate shaft to the rack. The key here is the ignition lock cylinder mounted on the column itself — a classic Daimler-era part (the Crossfire shares its platform with the first-gen Mercedes SLK). The column's tilt mechanism uses a spring-loaded ratchet that locks into place with a distinct click. What most people don't realize is that the column houses a small electric switch for the key reminder — a simple plunger that wears out over time, causing the chime to stay on after you pull the key out. That's not a failure of the column itself, but a common annoyance tied to this exact assembly.
What Breaks on the Crossfire's Column
The Crossfire's column isn't known for catastrophic failures, but there are two things I see repeatedly in the shop. First, the turn signal stalk — it's a Mercedes part, and the plastic detent inside the stalk gets brittle with age. The stalk stops canceling after a turn, or it clicks but doesn't hold position. Second, the tilt mechanism's locking pawl. It's a small metal piece that engages with a toothed sector. If someone's been rough with the tilt lever, the pawl can slip, leaving the wheel loose and wobbling. You'll feel it immediately — a dead spot that shouldn't be there. Another thing: the ignition lock cylinder itself. The Crossfire's cylinder is prone to wear, especially if the key is heavy on the keyring. A worn cylinder won't turn smoothly, and in some cases, it can bind, preventing the key from turning. That's a big deal because you can't get the wheel to lock or unlock properly.
Used OEM vs Aftermarket: The Short Version
For this part, a properly inspected used OEM column is almost always the better call than an aftermarket copy. The aftermarket ones often use cheaper plastics in the stalks and the tilt mechanism, and they rarely match the exact fit of the OEM part. Plus, you're dealing with a car that's now 20 years old — a used OEM column from a low-mileage parts donor is likely to have more life left than a new reproduction built to a price point. Don't overthink it.
What to Check Before Buying a Used Column
If you're looking at a used 0000021999, here's what I'd do before handing over cash. First, check the tilt mechanism. Pull the lever and move the wheel through its full range — it should be smooth, with no gritty feel. Then, lock it in place and try to move the wheel up and down with moderate force. Any play means the pawl or the sector is worn. Second, inspect the turn signal stalk. Press it up and down — it should click firmly and return to center. If it feels loose or doesn't cancel, walk away. Third, look at the ignition lock. Insert a key (if available) and turn it — it should be smooth, not stiff. Check the key reminder switch by pushing the plunger manually; it should click and release. Finally, inspect the column shaft for any signs of rust or damage, especially where it meets the intermediate shaft. Look for a star-shaped joint — that's the steering coupler, and if it's worn, you'll get a clunk on the road. Any of these issues aren't deal-breakers if you can fix them, but they're bargaining points.
Before you buy, check the current listings for this part on our site — we have a few in stock, and each one has been inspected for the issues above. If you see one that fits your budget, grab it while it's there.
